I find that it can be useful, and is worth keeping a bottle around. (An employee at one of the larger paint manufacturers told me that the person in charge of formulating their paints absolutely hated it, and their exact quote was "I will not make my paint play nice with your floor wax"). The scale modeling community has been singing the praises of Future Floor Polish for years - wargamers seem to love it or hate it. I would recommend inks over paint for these washes, as they seem to give better results. (I used Formula P3 & Vallejo Game Color inks). This version comes of the recipe from an article on Dr. One thing they all seem to have in common is using acrylic floor wax as an ingredient. While they're not that amazing, they do work well, and are especially a good tool for gamers who just want to get their models to tabletop standard as quickly as possible. There are a lot of people who claim to have discovered the perfect "magic wash" - they make it sound like all you have to do is basecoat your model, slop on their "magic wash", and collect your Golden Demon. I would usually use a labelmaker for this but I ran out of label tape - a Sharpie will do in a pinch. ![]() you can see how it makes the details much more apparent, and it also gives you the advantage of "pre-shading" the crevices - this prevents the "dirty" look that can happen if you get too enthusiastic while washing an already-basecoated model.īe sure to label all your bottles so you know what's in them. and here's the same model after the wash: Here's a shot of a Space Marine Librarian with only a primer coat: To use this wash, just brush it liberally on a white-primed model. bottle from Reaper (available on their website - $3 for a three-pack): I used disposable pipettes with graduated marking on the side to measure the ingredients. 1 part paint (I used Citadel Chaos Black) You can also buy an eight-ounce bottle for half the price, if you're so inclined. It's kind of pricey ($20 for a sixteen-ounce bottle), but if you sign up for Michael's email newsletter, they'll email you a 40% off coupon. ![]() This should be available at art supply houses or craft stores. You want the standard liquid matte medium - not the "gel" version. ![]() You could have all kinds of funky chemicals and/or mineral deposits in your tap water - a gallon of distilled water costs one measly dollar at the grocery store, and will last you forever. Use distilled water when mixing your washes. One that I've tried and had good luck with is from this article by Ron Vutpakdi. Many painters have a standard "go-to" wash that they treat all their minis with before painting, in order to make the details "pop" a bit, which makes picking them out easier during painting. Here I'm going to talk about some of the more popular homebrew washes, how to make them, and what they can do for you. There are also dozens, if not hundreds, of "homebrew" wash formulas all over the wargaming & modeling forums. A few years ago Games Workshop introduced the Citadel Washes, which work brilliantly (but, like all GW products, are a bit expensive). Many still use just that, and it can work well. This is what allows the wash to settle down into the crevices of the model, rather than "pooling" on the surface.įor years, painters used a basic wash of water + paint + dish soap. and a surfactant (something that reduces the surface tension of water). The wash medium, that makes up the bulk of the wash (usually water) Most washes have three basic components in common: ![]() While some people claim that washes are a "beginner's crutch", in my opinion washes can often accomplish shading with as good as, or even better results (in some cases), than tediously painting many layers. Washes are an indispensable tool for most painters.
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